Diagonal weave are basically type of twill weaves confined to bold twills running at angles greater than 45°, although often regular 45° twills are spoken of as diagonals; regular diagonals are generally formed by combining two regular 45° twills in their picks or ends.Diamond weaves are type of twill weave which forms the shape of a perfect diamond.

## Diamond Weave

By reversing both the harness and chain drafts of any regular twill, another class of weaves that is very largely used, and known as diamond weaves from the effects formed in the cloth, will result. Fig. 49 (a) shows a regular twill from which it is desired to construct a diamond weave. First build the chain draft by reversing the picks exactly as when forming waves lengthwise of the cloth. For the purpose of illustration, however, the picks will be reversed from the first pick, instead of from the last as in the previous illustration. It should be understood that in either case the. weave will be the same. Fig. 49 (6) shows Fig. 49 (a) reversed in this manner. Fig. 49 (b) should be considered as the chain draft of the desired weave, while the drawing-in draft will be a regular point draft made on the same principle as the drawing-in drafts for the regular weaves that were made into waves extending across the cloth. The chain draft occupies 12 harnesses and consequently the drawing-in draft will be the 12-harness regular point draft. In other words, the ends will be drawn in the following order: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,6,7, 8,9, 10,11,12,11,10, 9,8,7,6, 5,4,3,2. It should be noticed that in this case, as well as in weaves forming wave effects, the last pick joins perfectly with the first; also the last end with the First. In order to show the effect that will be formed in the cloth when using Fig. 49 (b) for the chain draft and drawing in the warp ends as described, the weave has been worked out and is shown in Fig. 49 (c).

## What is Diagonal weave?

Shaded Diagonals-Diagonal weaves may be considered as a type of twill weaves, the term being generally confined to bold twills running at angles greater than 45°, although often regular 45° twills are spoken of as diagonals; regular diagonals are generally formed by combining two regular 45° twills in their picks or ends. As the formation of other weaves by combining twills pick and pick or end and end has been fully explained, it will not be necessary to give further details of these weaves, but simply to state that all the examples under this method of forming weaves may be considered as diagonals. There is, however, a subdivision known as shaded diagonals, which are formed on a twill basis by taking as the base of the twill a different number of risers and sinkers in the different sections, grading from light to dark or from dark to light. For instance, suppose that a shaded diagonal is to be made from a regular 45° twill that is complete on 42 ends and 42 picks. Divide the First pick of the weave into six sections of 7 ends each. Then beginning with the first section leave only 1 end down; that is, this part would be marked 6/1. In the next section leave 2 ends down, making this section 5/2. Continuing in this manner, the next section will be 4/3 the next section, 3/4 the next section 2/5 while the last section will be marked Ls; therefore, the first pick of this weave would be marked 6/1 5/2 4/3 3/4 2/5 1/6. It is next necessary to run up this twill in the regular 45° manner until it is complete; that is, until it occupies 42 ends and 42 picks. Fig. 50 (iz) shows the complete weave. After the regular twill has been formed it is necessary to decide what angle the diagonal shall form. If it is to be a 63° diagonal, every other end of the regular twill may be taken. If it is to form an angle of 72°, every third end of the regular twill will be taken, and so on. Suppose that in this case it is desired to have the diagonal form an angle of 72°.