SHIRT MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Men’s shirt manufacturing processes, major components of shirts, types of shirts, types of pockets, types of plackets, types of cuffs, types of collars
MEN’S FORMAL SHIRT
OPERATION BREAKDOWN
OPN NO. | OPERATIONS | MACHINE TYPE | SMV | |
Collar Preparation | ||||
1. | Collar fusing | IRON | 0.25 | |
2. | Collar make mark+ match | MANUAL | 0.25 | |
3. | Collar run stitch | SNLS | 0.45 | |
4. | Collar edge trimming | SNLSEC | 0.20 | |
5. | Collar turn | WS | 0.35 | |
6. | Collar topstitch | SNLS | 0.40 | |
7. | NB hemstitch | SNLS | 0.25 | |
8. | Collar +Band match | MANUAL | 0.3 | |
9. | Insert collar in neckband | SNLS | 0.55 | |
10. | Collar pick shape ready | SNLS | 0.91 | |
11. | Collar pick turn and Trimming | TABLE | 0.35 | |
12. | Collar pick centre stitch | SNLS | 0.31 | |
13. | Collar ready cutting | SNLSEC | 0.18 | |
14. | Collar notch and mark | TABLE | 0.15 | |
TOTAL | 4.9 | |||
Cuff preparation | ||||
15. | Cuff hemstitch | SNLS | 0.27 | |
16. | Cuff Run stitch | SNLS | 0.55 | |
17. | Cuff edge trimming | SNLSEC | 0.20 | |
18. | Cuff notch and trimming | TABLE | 0.30 | |
19. | Cuff turn and crease | WS | 0.35 | |
20. | Cuff topstitch | SNLS | 0.55 | |
21. | Cuff Finish Iron | IRON | 0.30 | |
TOTAL | 2.52 | |||
Sleeve Preparation | ||||
22. | Sleeve lower placket attach | SNLS | 0.35 | |
23. | Sleeve lower placket tacking | SNLS | 0.28 | |
24. | Sleeve upper placket crease | IRON | 0.50 | |
25. | Sleeve upper placket attach | SNLS | 0.75 | |
26. | Sleeve pleat mark | SNLS | 0.20 | |
27. | Sleeve pleat stitch | TABLE | 0.30 | |
TOTAL | 2.38 |
Front Preparation | |||
28. | Front button placket attach | SNLS | 0.40 |
29. | Front BH placket attach | K-S | 0.40 |
30. | Front placket attach mark | TABLE | 0.18 |
31. | Front placket crease | IRON | 0.40 |
32. | Front placket raw edge cut | TABLE | 0.20 |
33. | Front placket hem stitch | SNLS | 0.25 |
34. | Front placket attach | SNLS | 0.65 |
35. | Front placket T/S | SNLS | 0.15 |
36. | Front placket set and trim | TABLE | 0.28 |
37. | Front button placket label
mark |
TABLE | 0.20 |
38. | Front button placket
label attach |
SNLS | 0.35 |
39. | Wash Care label attach | SNLS | 0.25 |
TOTAL | 3.71 | ||
Back Preparation | |||
40. | Main+ Fit label attaches to back yoke | SNLS | 0.20 |
41. | Back yoke attach | SNLS | 0.55 |
42. | Back yoke topstitch | SNLS | 0.50 |
TOTAL | 1.25 | ||
Assembly | |||
44. | Front and back setting | TABLE | 0.50 |
45. | Shoulder attach | SNLS | 0.60 |
46. | Shoulder attach T/S | SNLS | 0.40 |
47. | Collar attach | SNLS | 0.50 |
48. | Collar tape crease | IRON | 0.20 |
49. | Collar tape attach | SNLS | 0.35 |
50. | Collar close | SNLS | 0.60 |
51. | Sleeve match | ||
52. | Sleeve attach | SNLS | 0.90 |
53. | Sleeve inside allowance cut | MANUAL | 0.25 |
54. | Armhole T/S | SNLS | 0.52 |
55. | Side seam attach | FOA | 0.70 |
56. | Cuff setting | TABLE | 0.20 |
57. | Cuff attach | SNLS | 0.60 |
58. | Bottom trimming | TABLE | 0.20 |
59. | Bottom hemstitch | SNLS | 0.60 |
60. | Mark for button sew | TABLE | 0.40 |
61 | Buttonhole | BH | 1.17 |
62. | Button attach | BTN | 1.02 |
63. | Final thread cut | MANUAL | 0.8 |
TOTAL | 10.51 |
TOTAL SMV OF SHIRT | |
Total operations | SMV |
Collar preparation | 4.9 |
Cuff Preparation | 2.52 |
Sleeve Preparation | 2.38 |
Front Preparation | 3.71 |
Back Preparation | 1.25 |
Assembly | 10.51 |
TOTAL SMV | 25.27 |
Here,
- IRN – Iron Machine
- SNLS – Single needle lock stitch
- SNLSEC – Single needle lock stitch with edge cutter
- 3 OL – 3 thread Overlock
- DNL – Double-needle lockstitch machine
- K-S – Kansai machine
- FOA – Feed of the arm
- BH- Buttonhole machine
- BTN- Button attaching machine
BOTTLENECK IN A SHIRT
These are the bottleneck operations in manufacturing a shirt, as it takes more time due to interlining and the number of stitches involved in it.
- Collar making and attachment
- Collar tape attach
- Diamond placket attach
COSTING
Stitching cost
Operators wage per day= Rs. 400 Total working hours per day= 8 hrs
Wage per minute= (8*60)/400
= Rs. 1.2
Total SMV of shirt= 25.27 minutes
Total cost= Wage per minute* Total SMV of shirt
= 1.2*25.27
= Rs. 30.32
Cutting cost
Panels | No. of pieces |
Collar | 2 |
Collar band | 2 |
Cuff | 4 |
Front | 2 |
Back | 1 |
Yoke | 1 |
Collar fusing | 1 |
Cuff fusing | 1 |
Trim | 3 |
Total cost=Rs 2.50
Trims cost
List of Trims | Quantity |
Sewing Thread | 1 |
Buttons | 6 |
Brand label | 1 |
Wash care label | 1 |
Size label | 1 |
Total cost=Rs 6.00
Fabric cost
Fabric | Quantity | Cost/mtr | Total cost(Rs) |
Main fabric | 1.2 meter | 80 | 96 |
Trim fabric | 1/4 meter | 80 | 20 |
Total cost=Rs 116
Finishing cost
Finishing process | Total cost |
washing | 10 |
pressing | |
Embroidery |
Total cost=Rs 10.00
Packaging cost
Materials | cost |
Cartoon | 0.5 |
Polybag | 0.5 |
Plastic collar
band |
0.5 |
collar butterfly | 0.5 |
Back cardboard | 3 |
Total cost=Rs 5.00
Total cost
Total cost of garment= (Sewing +cutting +Trim +Fabric +Finishing +Packaging) cost
= Rs. (30.32+2.50+6.00+116+10.00+5.00)
= Rs. 169.82
![](https://cdn.textileschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/pattern-pocket-1.jpg)
![](https://cdn.textileschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/pattern-sleeve-1.jpg)
Placket
![](https://cdn.textileschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/pattern-cuff.jpg)
![](https://cdn.textileschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/pattern-collar.jpg)
![](https://cdn.textileschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/pattern-back-panel.jpg)
![](https://cdn.textileschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/pattern-front-panel.jpg)
![](https://cdn.textileschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/pattern-shirt-yoke.jpg)